Cataphract

He did such an awesome job, I wanted to post the video but I have no idea where to post it. It's not really politics or political leaders but it is. Every community that I went to, it seems like it would break a rule so happy to see someone shitposting it at least.

Interesting getting some downvotes with no comment pushbacks on the validity of their scientific process even with posting their methods. Is this just people upset that someone is challenging their beliefs that are being reinforced with the graphic but can't dispute any positives in their data collection process?

Commented above, it's actually worse for septic tank systems. Your sewage is collected by a business (with your particular address and name associated with billing) and processed at some of the same facilities the monitoring equipment would be setup at. You would have years of drug use stored as evidence (and the tank on your property for further evidence) and they would have a better case of probable cause to investigate your particular residence instead of a county/town wide report.

NP! it's a shit acronym to be honest lol. Someone must get off to it because it's used everywhere instead of actual titles and/or departments in the states.

I wouldn't be too sure of that, could actually be worse for septic system users. I could easily see a system implemented where a septic tank truck has to be "inspected" when it goes to process the waste. If sensors tripped or flagged then they would sequester the employee and his logs which would lead them straight to your house or a few handful. Kinda like how junkyards require identification and address the metals came from in case an investigation needs to be launched about stolen goods.

Law enforcement officers.

so I'm not sure what you're replying too because the comment was deleted but I've always been fascinated by the instance-hating and what causes it. Like a particular mod, admin, or even community you've interacted with, I kinda get. But the broader instance thing is just.... interesting.

I don't know if piefed.social has a different kind of setup, but I'm not bombarded with a lot of what instance-haters report to have happening. I'm not getting personal messages or stickied posts on my feeds, it's basically the same all feed when I use any other instance just browsing without a login (I like to visit places like lemmy.today and their sick ass layout on tablet). My subscription feed would be the same regardless as well if I migrated. I found myself on .ml because years ago instances weren't as reliable with downtime or loaded slowly/error-ed but .ml was always responsive and up for me. The only reason I've stayed is because of people who hate .ml actually, like you don't look down on someone because of the neighborhood they live in do you? For those that automatically block an entire instance, I'm just kinda glad I don't have to deal with them in that sense.

I also might be missing part of your modlog if it's not showing for me but I only see 5 bans for "anti-ai troll" 2 months ago and 3 for "Pro-Zionist debate/apologia" 9 days ago. The 3 recent are easy to figure out because of the lengthy comments you had in the crazy ass post "Update: anarchist.nexus has been refederated" (I tried to stay away from that because it all looked heated at the time lol). The 2 months ago is easy to find if you manipulate your profile link with changing comment page numbers by 5's and just look at the dates. You commented on a post that was cross-posted to several of the lemmy.dbzer0.com communities saying anti-ai stuff and got banned several minutes after that. (I'm not a mod of these communities so not judging or stating whether the ban's were valid, just sharing why they probably happened).

I hope that anyone taking meaning or valuation from this data seriously looks into the methods and how fucked this whole survey process is (as you should with any data you're forming an opinion from). I'm kinda just sick and tired of crap like this being taken seriously as a true projection of a populace. I get that surveys are rough science, but the way it's disseminated through articles or comments is that it's gospel truth (pun intended).

What is the American Trends Panel (ATP)? (thank you @TragicNotCute@lemmy.world

Oversampling is used to study small groups, not bias poll results

Hilarious ass video showing their "science" - Methods 101: Random Sampling

When surveying small populations, some approaches are more inclusive than others

I don't know why but the way this post was written made me read it in Tim Pool's voice. Guess I gotta lay off majority report videos for a while now. Glad to see push back and acknowledgement in the comments that this data is irrelevant. It's neat, but way too many factors and stretching of meanings which makes this a worthless analysis (with a very blatant bias in the reporting).

Had the same wtf thinking how this is going down globally. Like America's situation currently, totally get it. But, everyday it seems another government is pushing this regardless of the political spectrum that supposedly exists.

Really curious why I'm not seeing more articles about the individuals in legislation that are pushing this and what funding/lobbying they're receiving. There has to be multiple common threads because politicians aren't commonly "in the know" of current tech unless someones whispering a direction in their ear.

You say that but it seems like the current administration has made a lot of change in less than 2 years when the entirety of the party is in lock-step.

Imagine if instead of ACA we got medicare for all, meaning Republicans trying to touch it would've effected every single citizen akin to social security that they still haven't successfully gutted because of the political suicide it would cause for them.

Dark covered what to do if you're not getting 240 at the top of the tank (inspect the line from tank to breaker), so I'll throw some ideas at you if you are getting 240 at the top (just so you don't have to wait for further replies and can jump on the next step and get this done). Btw, kudos to your household for being patient with this process. It's not just diagnosing, but a learning and troubleshooting process. They're a saint and let them know we all appreciate the sacrifice.

Test the black wire coming out of the top of the tank for a break, that's the one you had the low reading on previously from your pictures. It travels from the top of the tank down to the thermostat on the left side. Make sure the wires are completely disengaged from the thermostat and not touching other wires before testing. In your picture it looks like you might be pressing the black wire against the terminal when you were testing it which would give a bad reading (hard to tell from 2d). Simple testing tutorial (3:10s long)

If the wire is good, test the thermostats as demonstrated in this video after making sure all wires are completely out of the way. Thermostat Testing (4:25s long).

Then test the Elements, Element Testing (2:20s long).

I know you've done this before, but these are simplified tests and redoing/varying a test is never a bad idea. The more reasons to practice with a multimeter you have, the better you'll be as well.

You're almost there!

Typically water heaters are ran with 10/2 since a neutral isn't required unless you're doing an advanced setup. The top of the water tank under the conduit will be spliced like this picture

The red and black are internal wiring between the top splice and thermostat

@yo_scottie_oh@lemmy.ml I'm not sure if you missed my comment earlier above here, that video will also show in depth how to properly test the breaker inside of the box and outside of it plus goes over the do's and dont's of the procedure.

That definitely makes me feel better seeing the pan, looks like an add-on with those wires going in. Possibly a sump pump/dehumidifier in an enclosed crawl space with lighting? If you get a chance to crawl under there it's always good to do a rough draft diagram of what's going where or just visually get the gist of what's going on if you're interested in your layout/systems.

The test of the electrical wires on the top of the tank will be the same tests you would perform by the thermostat that @Darkassassin07@lemmy.ca suggested, only difference is if one of the wires was damaged leading from the top of the tank to the thermostat but that's like a 1/million chance. If you're comfortable working around the thermostat it's probably easier to test each hot wire in there individually than additionally opening up the top.

If one of those lines are dead than I would suggest testing the breaker at the box (as dark said, sometimes breakers go bad but also such a rare occurrence compared to therm and elements), same kinda technique but use a lot more caution as you're opening up your breaker box. reference/tutorial video here, make sure you switch the main breaker off before taking the cover off, either in the top of your box or if it's a sub panel, then a different switch in your main box. Follow the videos advice and make some mental notes as he goes over the bus bar and the dangers associated with the box. Pretend the box exposed is a hot poisonous potato and you're playing operation and you will be fine.

The great part about this is if you're successful you've now unlocked the ability to add new lines in your house (code compliant of course, there are resources to make sure you're doing it right). You should feel uncomfortable and weary while doing these steps, complacency in electrical work is what gets you injured or killed.

I posted a comment as well and funnily enough used the same wiring diagram because it looked the best and simplest lol.

Late to the party but hopefully able to help out, I've replaced many of these during my years doing contractor work. I'm extremely happy that you've decided to tackle this on your own, it's great for learning about the systems in your house and saves you a ton of money.

The reset button doesn't always pop (it's for overheating), but your description of having room temperature water probably means one of the elements aren't working (one that's got both completely out will be the same as your cold water running). This is assuming the water gets used pretty frequently as is suggested with a two-person household with showers/kitchen/etc.

As you see from this diagram there is a "dip tube" that the cold water comes in from, the elements will heat the water and make it rise to be the first water to exit from the tank. The rising water without both elements heating it will slowly dissipate causing it to continuously cycle the water up and down as it heats and cools.

You're on the right track with the videos you posted but kinda veered off from instructions with your testing. Continuity testing isn't a sure-fire accurate assessment unfortunately, also you're not placing your probes in the right spots for testing as is recommended in your video (timestamp around 6:30). No-contact voltage testers are.... iffy at times. It's basically just used as a safety measure to double check yourself before you start messing with stuff. I've gotten false positives plenty of times over the years with different devices. But, never just go with it, check over everything again including physically checking electrical line runs to make sure someone didn't splice something in that's about to shock you.

If you're a tinkerer like me, get familiar with your electrical diagram for your tank. It will be one of the two following configurations,

That silver conduit piping on the top of your tank is the electrical line-in. If you want to completely eliminate the breaker/electrical line from being a problem you can unscrew the electrical panel on top (shut the breaker off first) to see the wires spliced inside (more than likely just wire nuts). Always use safety first, shut off the breaker and test the top with your no-contact before you start un-nutting wires. Take pictures of the wires if you feel it's necessary to know exactly what is connected where (good practice to keep yourself from being screwed on bigger projects and something to look back as a "I did that"). Make sure the wires are secured in a manner that will not electrify the tank or anything around it before turning the breaker back on to test it. If those wires are good you know the problem is with the tank. Pre-twist the wires together before putting the wire nuts back on. It can be daunting, but so is automotive or even working around an oven, precaution and awareness, you've got this and don't rush ANYTHING.

If it's all good, I would suggest buying the kit from home depot if it's not something that's gonna hit your wallet too hard. Worse case scenario, you don't need it and eventually you WILL need it since all water heaters eventually break (the tank is just an insulated tank, the thermostats and elements are really the only "thing" that can break). 10% of the time it's a thermostat, it's very rare and usually from the environment like being installed in a crawl space (corrosion and etc). 80% of the time it's an element, other 10% will be a leak (again usually from the condition of the space). Your setup looks very well conditioned for your tank, so I would bet on an element.

Things You'll Need:

Phillips head screwdriver
Socket for the element and breaker bar (or big-ass wrench with a metal pipe setup if it's been ages since it was opened or just an element wrench if it's nice to you, sockets are better if you're looking at future projects since the element wrenches can be dainty )
Garden hose long enough to drain the tank outside at a lower elevation (gravity drain)
Flat head screwdriver large enough to comfortably turn the drain valve below

The usual school of thought is if you're replacing one thing, just replace all of it. Since you're the worker and home-owner it's up to you. I have had kits with bad parts, but it's rare so just keep that in mind.

I found a pretty basic manual from state selects that will cover your model, seems there are some shenanigans with how they do their specific model numbers (it happens). Bottom of Page 15 begins the process for thermostat and later on element removal/inspection/replacement. You can inspect the elements first and replace the one probably bad one and see if that fixes your problem with spare parts left over for a future fix, or just go to town with it all.

Some quick side notes:

turn the hotwater tank breaker off and run the warm water out with a sink tap before you shut off the cold water valve and start draining (so incase there's a pocket of scorching water it's not an issue).
After closing the cold water valve to the hot water tank, leave a hot water sink valve open to allow air in and completely drain it
There are other things to do "maintenance" wise if you're up to the task and already balls deep in the tank at this point:

Check the water draining to see if you have debris coming out of the hose (should be flushing your tank periodically but most homeowners don't, reduces capacity and efficiency so you could be making your tank even better than it once was). If you see debris just keep the cold water on till it stops.
Check the anode rod if you're unsure of it's condition, it's a sacrificial rod inside of your tank (the manual discusses it as well, top of page 15)
test the Temperature-Pressure Release valve, again page 15 (TPR is not the drain valve, see diagram at the top with the dip tube)

Continued side notes/concerns:

Those wires running across the floor scream at me, right near the discharge hose spot as well with oldschool wire staples without the protective rubber. I'm assuming the black wire runs behind the tank and up into the conduit (they atleast put conduit on but seems kinda silly with the rest ran like that). Just be careful, one earthquake and some water leakage could mean electrified area if the wires get damaged. Re-run those lines if/when you feel like it.
Is there a pan under your tank? It's kinda dark so couldn't tell, makes me concerned for where the TPR valve is being ran too and I hate when they install the tank so you can't see it (probably on the right side under the insulation). If you don't have an expansion tank on your line then you could be getting drips where you can't see (more often it drips somewhere that a shitty valve is installed like a toilet). If there's no drip pan, then if the tank is damaged the water will go wherever it wants but the TPR should have a pipe running into a crawlspace or outside depending on local code. If the valve is just sitting there, with no pipe coming out, you have another project that needs addressed because it's a ticking time bomb that will flood one day. Best bet is to have a drip pan that's ran out and the TPR valve with a pipe to the drip pan so it's all caught.

Good luck, I'm here if you need anything additional!

What no one is mentioning is that it highly depends on what type of system your pipes lead to. If you're on a sewer system with newer pipes you're ok with letting it fly dirty mostly. If you're at an older house with cast-iron pipes and a septic system it's best to wipe them off. I just use a spatula when I'm done eating and wipe it off into the trash. My systems a little different with a monster of a grease trap that I don't want to have to get pumped again anytime soon so probably more picky about it than others.

Same kinda thing goes for garbage disposals, don't put food down it if you're on septic. Then again it all depends on amount of usage and if you mind paying to pump it sooner.

Definitely agree fresh bread is the best, used to work at a sandwich shop and anytime I had to make bread I would always make my own to eat (what hooked me on BLT's).

Are socks with sandals considered the shoes off or shoes on inside of a house though?

nah, you just have an abysmal reading comprehension and can't understand the original comment

What people are posting and linking isn’t “unproven”. They’re factual events that took place and their opinion on the matter which you seem to have a problem with both.

I'll go really slow for you.... the facts.... that people are speculating with.... have been shown with sources. Some opinions.... are that it looks suspicious.... and wouldn't be surprised.... if the administration performed a false flag.

Have a good one man, not worth continuing to communicate with someone that plenty of others have given up on.